Long before Top Chef, when Chrissie and I were living in a tiny three room cottage in West Harrison, a cookbook appeared on the Border's shelf that spoke directly to my developing culinary aspirations. Think Like a Chef was important to me because it is less a compilation of recipes and more a statement of philosophy. I distinctly recall reading the author's preface and narratives twice before looking at the recipes.
Since winning his first James Beard Awards his work at the Gramercy Tavern and for his cookbook, Tom Colicchio has gone on to become a fully branded celebrity chef. Along with being the head judge on Top Chef, his Craft and Craftsteak restaurants have taken root in some of America's premier culinary hot spots.
After our terrific experience at Perilla this winter, it was no surprise to me that Cara wanted to try Craft for her birthday this summer.
The dining room is incredibly modern. Its opulence comes from a liberal use of contrasting woods, lighting that is both romantic and masculine, and an architectural curve that softens the industrial layout. The floor plan is fairly genius and, from my vantage point, I could not find a bad table.
After a terrific amuse, the menus arrived on single sided placards that allow all items to be seen at once. This is important because at Craft dining is family style. There are no plated dishes on the menu. Each diner chooses dishes and sides and these are placed in proximity to the orderer, but are intended for the entire party to share. This is perfect if you have a finicky eater in your group. Meals can be tailored to avoid flavors and textures one might find offensive. It was my least favorite part of the meal. Instead of ordering whatever I was in the mood for, I felt compelled to do my part to keep the plates balanced.
We began the meal with cocktails and wine. The tables each have a drawer that slides out to the the server for a simple, yet incredibly effective, staging platform. The bottle of wine Chrissie's glass was poured from temporarily resided on this platform and the ceremony helped temper the price of the pour. I can't imagine why more restaurants do not employ such a useful and impressive device.
There were two low points of the evening and the first involved the sommelier. The wine list is immense, covering more than twenty pages. It is also expensive. The sommelier recognized our frustration as we struggled to find a bottle we would all enjoy and the we could afford. I explained our predicament, made a clear point of our price restrictions, and asked about two specific bottles. She made little to no mention of the bottles we were interested in and started selling wines that were twice as expensive. In case she had misunderstood I clearly explained we were there for the food and were not interested in spending that much on a bottle of wine. She then became a bit of a bully and got insistent on her selections. Feeling cheap and ignorant, I almost folded, but I kept my composure and told her we would discuss it further and thanked her for her time. We wound up ordering a bottle of Catena Malbec that we had initially inquired about. It would have done wonders for that five minute cross section of dinner had she simply said the wine would be perfect for our price point or told us why we would best be served elsewhere on the list.
We were in good company that night and I quickly forgot about the sommelier. Our first course was presented. I ordered the roasted quail and found it delicious. The girls, who both got tiny quail legs as their portion, were not impressed. It made me wonder about the whole family style concept. If my quail dish wasn't designed for sharing, there must be other dishes that don't divide well also. Cara's crispy bacon dish, on the other hand, was clearly designed for sharing. Inch square cubes of bacon were an essay on the various textures and flavors that can be composed with a single piece of bacon. Brian ordered the Wagyu carpaccio. It was decadent and flavorful. The best appetizer at the table was Chrissie's foie gras. I can often take or leave foie gras and leave it to Chrissie to enjoy. This piece was generous, perfectly seared, and accompanied with an incredibly complementary sauce. I made the mistake of cutting myself a thin slice as her plate went around expecting to take another later. There was no later.
The girls both ordered the dry aged sirloin for dinner. Because Cara ordered hers medium and Chrissie requested medium rare, these were almost two different meals. Chrissie's was just under medium rare and melted in the mouth. Cara's was just past medium and had developed a delicious sear that highlighted the sauce. Brian ordered the beef short ribs which came as a delicate portion served in a small bowl. The flavor on the short ribs was intense. The line between beef and supporting ingredient was negligible. Each bite was interesting and rewarding. With all of that beef at the table I ordered seafood. I could not have asked for better scallops. The sear was thick on one side, yet the scallop retained a perfect translucence at center. Again, my dish seemed the least compatible for family style dining. My four scallops were quickly consumed and the dish was gone, leaving me to scavenge off of everyone else's plates for the remainder of dinner.
Along with the main courses, the waitstaff suggests each person orders a side. We had the wild spinach that was served slightly creamed, sugar snap peas that were taken just beyond raw and were superb, a polenta that was fine, and corn and bacon risotto that stole the side show. I think a side per person might be over kill. We would have been just as sated with three.
Dessert is ordered in a similar a la carte fashion. Established combinations of a pastry base, fruit, and ice cream are offered, but dinners are free to mix and match to create their own individual plates. We ordered a serving of doughnuts with blackberries and vanilla ice cream. The doughnuts came with three great dipping sauces and did not require the extra sides we ordered. For the sake of experimenting, we also ordered a chocolate tart off of the prepared dessert list. It was good, but I didn't understand it as the signature chocolate dish.
Lastly, we ordered a cheese plate to go with coffee and after dinner drinks. This is when the second misstep of the evening occurred. The timing of the cheese, when compared with impeccable timing of the rest of the meal, was off. We soon discovered why when our server was surrounded by a manager and more experienced cheese server. His instructors were correcting him and prompting him through the cheese service. I don't think anyone else at the table minded, but I was offended. They should be training him in the back and should not release him to the floor until he is adequately prepared. At Friday's when a new waiter walks around with an experienced server I don't mind. At Craft on a Saturday I feel the covenant between the front of the house and the customer has been broken when I have to be the on the receiving end of someone's training. Had they asked if we minded or if they had offered to comp the plate, or even a portion of the plate, I would not have minded, but they did neither.
High Points-
Low points-
Will we go back? As fans of Top Chef, we had a great time checking out Colicchio's restaurant. Without the affiliation I don't know that we would have been drawn to Craft. For the prices at Craft I would prefer composed meals and an incredibly consistent front of the house. If we do go back it will definitely be for the tasting menu. Craft is one of the only restaurants I have ever seen where the tasting menu, due to the mix and match nature of the regular menu, is less expensive.
On a side note, Grub Street has reported that Tom Colicchio is planning to get back in the kitchen in a new restaurant that will plate composed dishes from a small fixed menu. This sounds more my speed.
Craft is located at:
43 East 19th Street
New York, New York 10003
Monday, July 28, 2008
Craft
Friday, July 25, 2008
Finger Lakes- Keuka
It was a chaotic spring for us both this year. Chrissie was finishing up her tenure year at school and I was a part of the varsity lacrosse coaching staff for the first time. We only had the time and energy to take a short trip to Las Vegas. We thought we might get away to somewhere more exotic during the summer, but the cheap vacations of two years ago were no where to be found. Instead of looking to Europe, the islands, or even more distant states, Chrissie suggested the Finger Lakes. We'd had such a good time in Napa a few years ago tasting the wine and exploring the fine dining that we thought we might recreate the experience in our own backyard.
The Drive
We left early on Sunday morning and took 87 to 17. The drive on 17 was surprisingly pleasant. Not only did this two lane highway travel at near interstate speeds, but the other drivers showed a lane discipline not often seen in the suburbs. Rarely did a slow driver hang up the left lane. Instead, they drove in a fashion more similar to Europe, politely moving right when they saw faster traffic approaching in their rear view mirrors. I couldn't have been more pleased. Interestingly, I found that the closer we got to Binghamton, the less aware the drivers became of their surroundings. I have a new respect for rural New Yorkers, especially when it comes to road civility.
The drive itself took just over four hours and we arrived in Hammondsport around noon.
Keuka Lake
Chrissie chose Keuka Lake because she read it was the prettiest of the Finger Lakes and because it is home to two of the most recommended vintners on our list. Keuka is one of the smaller of the lakes and driving from tip to tip takes just under half an hour. Unlike wide highway along the larger Seneca next door, the road runs within throwing distance of the water, hugging the shoreline and curving to maintain its safe distance. Keuka is also unique in its offering of lodging. To stay on this lake you either rent a cottage or choose one of the small country inns.
The Wines
New York State wine has come a long way. The Finger Lakes are best known for their Rieslings, but these have certainly matured into more subtle and crafted versions of the sweet offerings I thought of before this trip. While still high on the sugar content, the better wines are drier, more complex, and use the sugar to allow the taste of the fruit to shine through rather than to make an easy drinking wine that more closely resembles grape juice. The primary red we found was Pinot Noir, but the majority of Finger Lake reds were watery and one dimensional.
Possibly the best delight of the trip was that the tasting rooms were either free or charged a nominal two dollars to try flights of five to seven wines.
Our favorite winery was easily Dr. Frank. They produce wines that most resemble the classic European and Californian varieties. They also produce some of the only truly palatable red wines we tasted during our stay.
We liked Dr. Frank so much we brought home a few bottles:
2000 Blanc de Blancs Finger Lakes Champagne- This is a very good sparkling wine done in the traditional methode champenoise. This wine is crisp and delicate and a worthwhile purchase to showcase how a New York can compete with a French.
2006 Gewurztraminer- Sweet, spicy, and interesting. One of our friends requested a bottle so we also got one for ourselves.
2006 Rkatsiteli- Sweet and dry at the same time. This was a well balanced wine we enjoyed during the tasting. The unfamiliar name also helped in this purchase. I will have fun telling friends that I just opened a bottle of Rkatsiteli.
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon- While we didn't try this one, I trusted the gentleman who was pouring our tastes and talking about the wines when he said this is a great cellaring wine. We'll toss it in the cabinet and drink it in a few years and have a chance to reminisce about this vacation.
Here's a picture of the vineyards overlooking Keuka Lake taken from Dr. Frank's:
Other wineries we enjoyed on Keuka were:
We also drove out to eastern Seneca for a few tastes. The two we enjoyed most were:
that houses a spartan, yet elegant, tasting room. Their better than average wine, scenic drive to the top of the ridge, and proximity to Fox Run make them a must stop if you are in that section of Seneca.
If you are on Keuka, I compel you to visit the Pleasant Valley Wine Company. This recommendation has nothing to do with fine wine and everything to do with New York State history. Pleasant Valley was the first bonded winery in the United States and the tour provides a window into the past. The tasting room, now mostly dark and desolate, resonates with the ghosts of imbibers from the years of the Civil War to the 1950s. To demonstrate how far NY wines have come you only have to taste the samplings of Pleasant Valley. These relic wines offer a baseline so genuine I can't believe they are still in production.
The Food
We ate three meals on Keuaka, one of which I wish I could reproduce in Westchester and one of which I wish I could trade back for two hours of my life. The best dining we found on Keuka, which is limited in its dining choices by size and location, was the Pleasant Valley Inn (not to be confused with the above mentioned Pleasant Valley Wine Company). We ate there on the recommendation of Debby, our inn keeper, and were clearly not disappointed.
Only open for dinner Thursday through Sunday, we had to eat there on our first day at the lake. I would have returned each subsequent night had they been open. To begin the meal we both ordered special appetizers. Chrissie had a delicate fried cheese plate and I ate a small presentation of Basque sardines (which our waitress kept referring to as Italian when she explained the specials. Instead of being put off, I found it slightly endearing).
The dinner options were very straightforward, but the lack of haute cuisine was not felt when the perfect cooking came from the kitchen. Chrissie and I both ordered steaks. I had my favorite, the NY strip, and Chrissie had the tenderloin Tuscana, two medallions of filet layered with grilled portobello and served with Gorgonzola butter. I ordered mine medium rare and Chrissie hers rare. Both orders were fired beyond expectation. We tend find that when Chrissie orders rare at home it is typically cooked too far or left blue. I was halfway through my steak when I told Chrissie I wanted to take the chef home with us.
However much we loved the food, I hate to admit the moment I really fell in love with the Pleasant Valley Inn was when the check came. We had drinks, a bottle of wine, appetizers, steaks, coffee, a Port, and a shared dessert and the grand total was one hundred and twenty-two dollars. I was nearly giddy when I calculated the tip. I suppose the only flaw of the evening was the lack of espresso. A high point, exclusive of the perfect steaks, was the bottle of Villa Mt Eden cab. The wine drank like a much more expensive bottle and I hope to find it at home to add to the cabinet.
The counterpoint to this meal came when we ate at the Esperanza Mansion. The only redeeming quality to this dinner was the view of the lake. We were greeted in the dining room by a family of flies loudly seeking a flaw in the window. I let that slide because it is such a beautiful old building and the menu, which I'd seen in some wineries, promised a nice meal. The promises of the menu were not kept by the kitchen. Chrissie's carpaccio resembled a not so thinly sliced not so well executed piece of rare prime rib. It was fairly foul. My scallops were texturally sound, but lacked any browning. It got worse during the main courses when both Chrissie's tuna and my chicken were incredibly overcooked. The entire experience was so consistently bad that we didn't even order drinks after our first round in an effort to expedite our departure and to keep money out of their coffers. Sadly, this meal, with no bottle of wine, no coffee, and no after dinner drinks was the same price as the far superior Pleasant Valley Inn.
I do have to say that we did thoroughly enjoy the boat tour of the lake offered by the Esperanza. The vessel was majestic and storied, the captain was informative and professional, and the crew were attentive to any needs.
The Black Sheep Inn
Chrissie found this inn in Frommer's where it is listed as a value and rated three stars. We've had good luck with similarly reviewed establishments and Chrissie sent them off an email. Later that same evening we got a call from Debbie, the innkeep/chef, and she and Chrissie began planning our trip.
The Black Sheep is located in an historic octagonal house that Debbie and her husband Marc painstakingly and accurately restored over a six year period.
Debbie, a graduate from the New England Culinary Institute and a former Cleveland caterer, greets her arriving guests in the inn driveway and immediately creates a sense of welcome.
The common areas of the inn are comfortable and, more importantly, usable. An inviting living room and dining 
area are on the first floor and the second floor houses a central den stocked with books, magazines, games, and puzzles. The high ceiling of this central room is capped with a stunning cupola adorned with a painted compass that takes full advantage of the daylight and is illuminated at night.
The inn's philosophy is very green and sustainable. They make their own soaps, belong to the farming collective, and cook locally and organically. Debbie is well known in Hammondsport for her cooking and this was clearly exhibited by the breakfasts she creatively put together each morning.
The Black Sheep Inn is not open to the public for dining, but, if you are a guest, Debbie will work with you to create three to five course meals that she serves in the former billiard room of the house. Chrissie and I opted for this on our final night. Debbie's blend of farm fresh food, health conscious cooking, formal culinary training, and years of experience properly ended our home state excursion to sample the wines and foods of Finger Lakes.
Friday, July 18, 2008
Iron Horse Grill
At times we overlook the most obvious choices when deciding where to dine. For years we have known about, and eaten around, the Iron Horse Grill in Pleasantville. I can only recall hearing positive feedback about the restaurant, but we always opted for other choices when searching for higher end contemporary American food. The inclusion of Iron Horse in this year's Zagat America's Top Restaurants mandated our first visit.
Located in a converted train station on the outer perimeter of central Pleasantville, the Iron Horse Grill is very easy to get to. Parking is not an issue unless you circle the block quixotically multiple times waiting for a spot to open by the front door. Once we'd resigned ourselves to the lot, we realized it was far closer and easier than we thought.
Forced again into a 6:30 reservation, we were at least not the only people there. In fact, it appears the restaurant caters to early dining. Peak capacity was seen at around seven o'clock and then waned as tables opened up and the room became more intimate. If proximity and noise are issues, I recommend, from our one experience mind you, a later reservation. The room itself is quaint, bordering on tight. The two tops were very close. Chrissie commented that it would be more pleasant to come with another couple because the seating for four is more casually spaced in the interior of the room while the couple seating is lined against a bench with just enough room to squeeze between tables. A cocktail and the added volume of more patrons helped obscure the distinct sounds of conversations coming from our neighbors.
It was a pleasure to have a waiter who was both gregarious and professional. At first I feared he was going to be too personal and taint dinner, but he expertly walked the line between the two personas. Since we were out for both dinner and to determine how accurate the masses were in their very high 27 rating, we asked our waiter about the tasting menu. There are three ways to eat at the Iron Horse Grill. A three course prix fixe and a five course tasting add to the standard dining experience. The waiter asked us the two questions he says he asks of anyone who inquires about the tasting menu. The first was if we trusted him and the chef. The tasting is not only blind, but each diner receives a different dish during each course. I'm still undecided if this is brilliant or too scary for repetition. The second was if we had any food allergies or aversions. We showed our faith in the kitchen by going ahead and ordering the tasting. We also ordered two half bottles of wine, a Chardonnay and a Chateauneuf du Pape, to hopefully complement what would follow.
The meal began with a ramekin portion of beet soup flavored with ginger. Beet soup is not something I would typically order, but it was well executed and the flavor developed with each bite until I found myself enjoying it very much. The first courses were a fig salad and the crisp khaifi shrimp. The fig was served on a bed of bitter greens with melon and ham. The shrimp was wrapped in shredded phyllo, fried, and served with cucumber yogurt salad. The fig salad was an excellent presentation of a first course. It was eclipsed by the perfect textures and interesting flavors of the shrimp dish.
The second course was not as successful. Both the ravioli and the seared scallop were disappointing. The scallop was served with creamed leaks and oyster mushrooms. While the scallop was expertly cooked, I found the flavors of the plate muddled and plain. The ravioli also suffered from a lack of flavor. In the end it was good that the two least successful dishes came out at the same time because these complaints did not resurface during the remainder of the meal.
The fish course brought plates of swordfish and cod. It was at this point I remarked how skilled the cook was. I pride myself on the ability to cook fish. Chrissie usually enjoys the textures and browning of my fish more than a restaurant's (keep in mind I'm cooking for two and can dedicate my entire attention to one task). Iron Horse Grill nailed every fish. In fact, their swordfish could have been the best cooked piece I've ever had. We continued to note a lack of intensity in the flavors. To counter this observation, the flavors of the meats and fish were all true and allowed to anchor the dishes without being overshadowed. We discussed, and continued to discuss in the days after the meal, whether we would rather have perfectly cooked protein that was on the blander side, or overcooked food with intense, bold flavors. I believe it is in the philosophy of the Iron Horse Grill to prepare meals that are excellent and accessible and to use fresh flavors and ingredients. While not risky, the execution, in my opinion, compensates for the vanilla palate.
Lamb chops and duck were served for the meat course. This made me very happy because those are the dishes I was looking at if we had ordered off the menu. Both dishes were cooked to a perfect temperature. The duck's skin was obscured by a glaze, but this was my only complaint about the dish. The lamb was the most tender serving I have had in recent memory. Each bite was buttery smooth but had enough chew to allow the flavors to linger. I might have thought the lamb was overcooked by the color, but to the tooth it was clearly perfect. Again, my compliments go out to whoever in that kitchen is cooking the proteins.
At this point we were incredibly sated. The dainty ladies seated next to us felt compelled to comment to the waiter about how much food the tasting menu brought to our table. I say this to set up how good the desserts were. Chrissie had the blueberry cobbler and I had a peach bread pudding. These typical American desserts were elevated to the level of fine dining and demanded to be eaten. Chrissie usually orders a chocolate based dessert, but after watching, and smelling, the dainty ladies enjoying the cobbler she had to have it. I think if you can change my wife's mind about dessert, especially after eating so many filling courses, you have created a truly tempting dish.
High Points-
Low Points-
Will we return- I can easily see the Iron horse Grill becoming the type of restaurant we revisit two or three times a year. I expected the prices to be more expensive, and while they certainly aren't a bargain, they do not go above thirty dollars for the regular menu. While dishes do not go above the thirty dollar ceiling, they can not be had for less than twenty six and the appetizers are approaching entree prices, averaging fifteen dollars. The tasting menu, at $69, is very fair.
It was the overall experience that we enjoyed above any singular component. The chef made the rounds twice, the hostess was welcoming, the waiter was pleasant, the food was well prepared, the atmosphere was appropriate for the food and prices, and the bill was not shockingly expensive.
I'll be keeping watch on their website and we'll return when the summer menu is retired.
Iron Horse Grill is located at:
20 Wheeler Avenue
Pleasantville, New York 10570
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