Crabtree's Kittle House

Chrissie finished her last teaching class ever this summer. To celebrate, my Uncle John wanted to take us somewhere she could indulge. Those new to this blog are probably unfamiliar with Uncle John and his culinary influence on my family. Instead of writing about it again, if you are interested click here to read about him. He wanted very badly to take us to Monteverde at Oldstone Manor to sate Chrissie's appetite for foie gras, but he discovered that it is currently not on the menu. After a little research on the internet he settled on Crabtree's Kittle House, a restaurant he and my aunt used to go to quite often, but hadn't been to in years, because they offer a trio of foie gras appetizer.

Our reservation was for Saturday night and we were disappointed to read on the website that the tasting menu is offered only Sunday though Thursday. The restaurant itself is located off of route 117 in Chappaqua in a renovated white mansion. Chrissie and I had been once before, but only for brunch. Our impression that it caters to an older crowd was confirmed by the clientele populating the dining room in advance of our 7:30 reservation. As a couple who are usually in bed long before midnight, the thought of eating with quiet refined diners excites me more than a raucous dining room populated with loud Westchester yuppies.

We were seated at a nice window table overlooking the lawn and garden. After the first round of cocktails were delivered we began checking out the menu. To our surprise and delight the tasting menu was offered. I don't know if the website is incorrect or if the kitchen anticipated a slow late summer night. Either way, we were all in agreement to order the chef's menu with the wine pairing. Since the whole point of choosing the Kittle House was to try their foie three ways appetizer we asked if the menu could be supplemented with an additional course. The chef obliged and our meal began with an amuse of cold summer soup.

The first course of the meal was poached lobster served with polenta and a coriander sauce. The lobster was perfectly poached and portioned. I was surprised at how good the dish was. We've had quite a few tasting menus this year and most of them were significantly more expensive than the Kittle House, especially when the wine pairing is factored in. We discussed for a quite some time why we had not been there to eat yet and what a bargain it would turn out to be if the rest of the dishes were as pleasing.

The fish course was halibut served with fingerling potatoes and bluefoot mushrooms. One of my favorite things to eat is a fish that is properly cooked and is served with cispy skin. The fish was excellent.

The foie gras came out between the fish and the poultry courses. My favorite presentation was the brulee. On paper I thought I would like the skewered lobes more, but in reality it was my least favorite that evening. When we go back I'll have to try the dish again and determine if it was my palate or the preparation itself that went against my typical expectations. The third style was a mousse accompanied by a vanilla and pear relish. This was also very good.

Our sixth course interlude over, the chef's progression began again with a grilled quail dish. By this time we had cemented our view that the Kittle House truly is a gem. I easily admit that it doesn't have the movie set splendor of Daniel, the army of waiters, captains, and busboys of Le Bernardin, the young money excitement of Jean-Georges, or even the niche market exclusivity of Blue Hill at Stone Barns. What the Kittle House offers is very good food ten minutes from my house that is well cooked, properly portioned, and presented.

The meat dish of the evening was a sirloin with a garlic and herb crust. Again, it was perfectly cooked. There was not one misstep the entire evening. Not one problem with the reservation, the front of the house, the food, or other diners. As we waited for dessert our conversation turned to the value of having a restaurant like this so close by. Chrissie and I don't mind going into Manhattan, but after the hassles of driving (parking and limiting alcohol), taking the train, or arranging for a place to crash, it seems like such a production. Factor in that our last Manhattan dinner was almost as much as a mortgage payment and I am inspired to find more places like the Kittle House.

Dessert was a fair presentation of selections from the menu. As someone who doesn't care that much for dessert, I do not know how much can be read into my ambivalence. The house did send out an extra dessert for the table. I'm not sure if was compliments of the chef or if they had an extra. Either way, I enjoyed the chocolate gift, an oozing mess of Valhrona chocolate wrapped in a thin pastry skin. Rather than traditional desserts I'd rather see the choice of cheese and a few petite fours at no additional charge for those of us who don't have a raging sweet tooth.

High Points-

• Traditional excellence from the kitchen. I've complained before that some places weren't adventurous enough. Kittle House doesn't need to be adventurous. They take contemporary American and do it properly.
• Pleasant staff who, while they might not be as polished as at some other establishments, consistently strive to please.
• There wasn't one thing wrong with the meal.
• Though expensive, I found it to be a very good value.
  

Low Points-

• I'm not sure if this a low point, but Chrissie and I were by far the youngest people in the room. This is not the place you go to for a celebration that begins at the bar.

Will we go back? Certainly. The food, the ease of reservations, the location, and the value we perceived mandate we provide patronage. I can't think of the last time we ate a meal at this price point or with these culinary aspirations that didn't offer something to complain about- be it a snooty waiter, an overcooked course, or dish that didn't work. I only hope that I leave the Kittle House next time nearly as pleased as I was this time.

Crabtree's Kittle House is located at:
11 Kittle Road
Chappaqua, New York 10514